Being a girl in the Dutch sneaker industry: "customers don't value my knowledge"
She's only 18 years old but has a sneaker resume that many sneaker fanatics envy: she collected 80 pairs of sneakers in three years time and worked at Patta, Snipes and now at Harlem82. Yentl is making moves in the sneaker industry and is vocal about her journey.
In an Instagram story of @girlonkicks I saw a post of @yent.l. A long text in which she vocalised some of her experiences as a girl working in sneaker stores. The story caught my attention because I’ve become more and more interested in the position of women in the sneaker industry. She wrote the following:
I somehow thought that over time things had changed for us women. In my teens and 20s I often received comments about my shoe because I was an ambitious girl that loved a good - often chunky basketball - sneaker. I should "wear a normal girls' shoe", or that I should "not be wearing sneakers outside the court". When dressed up friends said it looked like I was going to do aerobics. All this ended a few years ago. The comments I received are now replaced by requests for advice; people now want me to help them select the sneakers they should cop or ask for approval on their latest cop - probably because I am pretty vocal in my likes & dislikes. Also because it's now more common for women to wear sneakers. I also think it's more common to see girls working in sneaker stores and more girls are active in the community in other ways.
The post of Yentl worried me. She's almost half my age and is part of another generation - I thought times had changed over time. I thought she'd grow up, and work, in a more open culture where women can wear sneakers and have a knowledge about them. Are we still not where I thought we were?
Her knowledge is not taken serious
Yentl's story isn't the only time she spoke out about her experiences. When the Nike Jordan 1 Lucky Green released for women only, a male friend slid in her DM to tell her that he disagreed with the fact that Nike only released the women's shoe. He thought is was unfair. What he didn't realise is that the shoe ranges up to a EU size 44,5 - a size he does fit. "You see, that's how much the system we're in caters to men...Mens sizing doesn't start at a EU size 36!"
I ask her about her experiences in the shops she worked. "I don't want to bash the people in the shop, they are cool..." she replies "...It are the customers who seem to have issues with me being a girl and knowing much about sneakers." She shares situations in which she asked customers if she could help them "and they said they were fine, but asked the male colleague standing next to me for advice". Also she experienced situations where her knowledge is not taken serious "sometimes when people want to try on a certain shoe I tell them they might need a size up in this model, but they stick to their old size. My male colleague tells them the same story and they do want a bigger size...". Also in the resell Yentl noticed a different attitude towards her "at Sneakerness I asked a seller how much the sneaker was. I know the resell price was about €450. He told me they were over €1000. When my male friend asked him a bit later, he said he would sell them for €500". Male resellers often, also online, do not take her questions serious "They think I don't know how much they are worth and just make up random prices".
She might be young but she knows her parts. She gains knowledge by working in the industry but also by joining online communities. "I'm in many groups on social media and am very active on Instagram. I do keep up to date with releases and know how much sneakers are worth in resell". To me, as someone who studies sneakers in relation to subculture and identity, it seems like an intense business. Everyday new sneakers are being released and it's a lot to keep up to date with. "I learn a lot by working in the shops, but yeah I also spend a lot of my time online too to stay informed".
The future goal
Yentl is vocal about the current situation but believes change will come: "Boys have to educate themselves and check their attitude. We girls have to support each other." She can't see herself working in any other industry. "I don't know exactly what I'm working towards but for now I just want to expand my network, get more knowledge and create room for girls like myself in this industry". She wants to do it by participating in dope collaborations, setting up sneaker events and by supporting other women in the industry.
In 2021 she starts a new internship at Patta, "I won't be working in the shop but in the office because I want to learn more about other aspects of the industry". After her graduation she might take on another studies, to learn more about the industry. "In the meantime I just want to do dope things for us women in the industry, with other dope women" she says. Liking meeting up with my and talking about sneakers all afternoon. :)
Do you have an idea for a project that focusses on sneakers and women, or do want to know more about Yentl? Slide in her DM!
